Craft beer is gaining in popularity, but mainstream options are tried and true

Almost 60 years later, in January 2012, he recreated his record during the Australia versus India match at the SCG - much to the Australian public’s delight. 

No doubt, beer has a deep history in Australia, and has long served as a traditional beverage and cultural icon.

As Mr Hawke’s generation makes way for a new age of beer-drinkers, breweries and marketers are finding ever-new spins to put on the traditional malty brew, ensuring its ongoing appeal.

The result is ‘craft’ beer - also called ‘premium’ or ‘boutique’ - and its popularity is surging, both in the Hawkesbury and beyond.

The number of microbreweries making these craft beers has risen exponentially, from 150 five years ago to an expected 250 this year, according to market research company IBIS World.   

Interestingly, though, the amount of beer consumed per capita has declined, and Australians are drinking less alcohol all up than at any other time during the past 50 years, the Australian Bureau of Statistics reports. 

Clearly, what’s being lost in quantity is being made up in quality, and a new attitude to drinking is emerging. Many are turning away from guzzling traditional brands, and are instead supping on more premium drops - including alcoholic cider. 

If you go into any bottle shop in the Hawkesbury you’re bound to see at least a few rows of craft beers, with interesting names and inventive packaging and labelling to boot.

Roy Morgan identified craft beer drinkers as “Young, cultured, connected, clued in and cashed up”, however this isn’t the only demographic that’s helping fuel the boutique brewing fire. 

The sheer size of the area dedicated to displaying craft beer in one Hawkesbury bottlo is surprising. It’s given about twice the floor space of the mainstream beer section, and is way more interesting to look at.

“Branding is the key,” says store manager Dan The Man*, pointing to a bottle from a Queensland brewer.

“And there’s often a sense of humour in the packaging.”

The label to which he’s indicating features an image of a reclining, swimsuit-clad lady. Next to this is the beer’s name, which is a statement about the ‘old ball and chain’ being bitter. Sense of humour, indeed.

“Traditionally you had your pale ales and your Indian pale ales. Now you’ve got your golden ales, amber ales, wheat beers, lagers, pilsners and dark beers,” says Mr Man. There are also options for home brewers, as well as rows and rows of ciders.

“The buzzwords are low-carb, gluten free, organic and pure-brewed. Craft beer drinkers really like to know the purity of the ingredients used. They’re also more of a transient market - they like to try something new.”

Apparently, the Hawkesbury locale has a big thirst for craft brews.

“Our store has far higher turnover [of craft beer] as a per cent of sales than elsewhere in New South Wales,” he says.

“That’s not surprising, as the Hawkesbury started growing beards way before everyone else!”

He is referring to the ‘hipster’ movement, and suggesting the Hawkesbury is a trend-setting area.

Hipsterism refers to a contemporary subculture of people who enjoy clothing, music, food and activities considered outside of the social mainstream.

They’re known for their well-groomed beards, op-shop clothing and preference for organic foods. They’ve also been linked to the craft beer movement.

“The explosion in craft beers started around six years ago. But though the early-30s demographic lead the craze, the age is now spreading. It’s going towards the view that alcohol is more than something that just gets you drunk,” says Mr Man.

“The Hawkesbury has grown-up and matured as an area, which is partly to do with external influences. Eight years ago, for a night out, all the young people wanted to go to the city. But more and more so, they’re happy to stay local.”

In the pubs, craft beers have been claiming tap space, slowly but steadily. Tap space is prime real estate, and was once exclusive to mainstream bevvies only.  

In fact, establishments dedicated entirely to brewing and serving craft beers are popping-up all over the country, offerings punters the chance to sample different styles of boutique drops, winery-tasting-style.

One establishment of this ilk opened in the Hawkesbury in 2010, and has reportedly been doing roaring business.

The Australian Hotel and Brewery is based in Rouse Hill, and incorporates an on-site microbrewery where they brew their own brewskies. They offer nine craft beers on tap, and also provide guided tours and beer tastings.

“The craft beer market is seeing growth of 20 per cent, and now makes up for 5 per cent of overall beer consumption,” said David Ward, head of sales for the Brewery.

“There is definitely a change in the demographics of those who are consuming craft beer. In the US, 30 per cent of the market are women, and while Australia is behind the US, we are definitely seeing this trend emerging.”

One step further is home brew. But it’s not just the hipsters who are into it.

“We get young, old, brew wives and brew blokes - and ladies tend to drive the ciders a bit more than the blokes,” said Ian Dempsey, who owns Country Brewer - a specialist retail store in Richmond.

“Home brewing has definitely risen in popularity. It’s part of the slow food movement. And it’s not just about beers, either - we sell everything to cook, cure, culture or preserve at home.”

The people of the Hawkesbury and beyond are clearly cultivating a taste for craft beverages. 

But mainstream brews also have their place, and are still a popular option for many Hawkesbury locals - as evidenced by the towers of slabs in Dan The Man’s bottlo.

In the pubs, craft beers have a presence, but not to the same extent as in the bottle shops. Local establishments we’ve been to have one or two craft beers on tap only, and maybe a couple of options in bottles in the fridge.

Plus, during working hours, we found it much easier to find mainstream beer-drinkers sipping a cold one at their local, than craft beer enthusiasts discussing ‘head retention’ and ‘mouthfeel’.

Ian Tilden is a 53-year-old Richmond resident we came across at RG McGees Hotel on Windsor Street. He has been a regular there for 30 years, and before that he used to drink at the Richmond Inn.

“That was when it was a Tooths pub, before it got taken-over by United Breweries,” he told the Gazette.

Mr Tilden always drinks VB.

“I’ve been drinking it a while,” he said.

“I can’t drink Tooheys. Draught has a different taste to bitter - you have to pour the last mouthful out.”

He said his mates also drink VB, however one switched recently - for health reasons.

“A mate has switched to Extra Dry coz he says it’s better for his heart and doesn’t give him a headache,” he said.

“But I say, if you drink 15 beers then any type is going to give you a headache. Anyway, it’s low-carb beers like that that give me a headache!

“Younger versions of us drink Lashes and those other beers. The youth of today are different from us older people.

“I got given a box of corona once. It was OK, but I didn’t love it. Actually, I kept it in the fridge for when I ran out of VB.”

Stuart Hudson, also a Richmond resident, has been drinking at local establishments for 10 years.

We found him in The Royal Hotel (his local), drinking a schooner of Tooheys New.

“This is what I’ve been drinking since I was 18,” said the 34-year-old.

“I grew up in Tamworth, and I guess there weren’t too many other options at that time. There was no imported beer back then.

“If they had XXXX on tap here, I’d drink that. Sometimes I drink Coopers Pale Ale, but that’s only if I’m with mates who are drinking it and they shout a round.”

*Interviewee requested anonymity, so this is not his real name.