Indonesia: a complex country we only think about when we want something

By Michael Bachelard
Updated March 1 2015 - 2:18pm, first published 7:39am
A performing monkey picks lice for his owner in Jakarta. Photo: Michael Bachelard
A performing monkey picks lice for his owner in Jakarta. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Condemned Australian Myuran Sukumaran has developed a passion for art while on death row in Kerobokan prison in Denpasar, Bali. Photo: Jason Childs
Condemned Australian Myuran Sukumaran has developed a passion for art while on death row in Kerobokan prison in Denpasar, Bali. Photo: Jason Childs
Michael Bachelard doorstopping Prime Minister Tony Abbott at the Bali bomb memorial during an APEC summit in 2013. Photo: Amilia Rosa
Michael Bachelard doorstopping Prime Minister Tony Abbott at the Bali bomb memorial during an APEC summit in 2013. Photo: Amilia Rosa
Muhammad Dihan Awalidan, 4, is part of Indonesia's smoking epidemic. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Muhammad Dihan Awalidan, 4, is part of Indonesia's smoking epidemic. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Aceh's wilderness is being illegally cleared to make way for palm oil plantations. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Aceh's wilderness is being illegally cleared to make way for palm oil plantations. Photo: Michael Bachelard
A performing monkey picks lice for his owner in Jakarta. Photo: Michael Bachelard
A performing monkey picks lice for his owner in Jakarta. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Men gather to talk in the remote highlands village of Lolat. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Men gather to talk in the remote highlands village of Lolat. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Muhammad Dihan Awalidan, 4, is part of Indonesia's smoking epidemic. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Muhammad Dihan Awalidan, 4, is part of Indonesia's smoking epidemic. Photo: Michael Bachelard
A performing monkey picks lice for his owner in Jakarta. Photo: Michael Bachelard
A performing monkey picks lice for his owner in Jakarta. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Muhammad Dihan Awalidan, 4, is part of Indonesia's smoking epidemic. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Muhammad Dihan Awalidan, 4, is part of Indonesia's smoking epidemic. Photo: Michael Bachelard
A performing monkey picks lice for his owner in Jakarta. Photo: Michael Bachelard
A performing monkey picks lice for his owner in Jakarta. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Muhammad Dihan Awalidan, 4, is part of Indonesia's smoking epidemic. Photo: Michael Bachelard
Muhammad Dihan Awalidan, 4, is part of Indonesia's smoking epidemic. Photo: Michael Bachelard
A performing monkey picks lice for his owner in Jakarta. Photo: Michael Bachelard
A performing monkey picks lice for his owner in Jakarta. Photo: Michael Bachelard

The man stood, his eyes wild and glaring, not more than three metres from me, as rocks flew past and tear-gas guns popped, filling the air with noise and noisome smoke.